Brexit imperils the health of a nation whose food supply was already under threat from climate change and shifting global markets. Here, the Observer’s restaurant critic outlines how we might avert disaster

A few weeks ago, I was approached by an official at the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs. She told me the secretary of state, Michael Gove, was holding a round table discussion for ‘innovative thinkers’ on 25 July to give him ‘food for thought in the early days of the new job’. He had asked for me to be invited. I have explained on my blog that I have a low opinion of Michael Gove for a number of reasons. So I chose not to go.

But God knows Gove needs advice, because our whole food supply chain has been imperilled by the Brexit vote. I have therefore decided to put my thoughts into a written submission. Gove can read the report, which has been emailed to his office. And so can you, if you like. I have chosen not to receive any payment for this article, which is, I hope, a worthwhile contribution to a vital debate.

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