Glimpses of reconciliation as the ethnic divides are slowly being bridged

In a picturesque village in northern Kosovo, Marko Đurić swigged from a bottle of Gazimestan beer and smiled for the cameras. On a visit to the area a few weeks previously, Đurić had been arrested by special forces, bundled into a police van, and unceremoniously deported. This time, Serbia’s point man for Kosovo issues was allowed to stay, albeit with a helicopter hovering noisily overhead to keep watch.

Đurić was in Kosovo, which Serbia still officially regards as its province, to tour a microbrewery producing beer named in honour of a medieval battle which is key to Serbia’s emotional attachment to Kosovo. He also visited a spa resort, under construction to cater to Serbian pilgrims to the 14th-century Banjska monastery.

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