Some Italians fear the sparkling wine has become a victim of its own success

It’s aperitivo time in Treviso, a city in the heart of the Italian prosecco-making region of Veneto, and some of those gathered in the bars are still smarting over recent criticism of their esteemed sparkling wine.

“It’s not true that it’s bad for your teeth,” said Mariolina Ticcò, flashing a confident grin while swirling a glass of her favourite pre-dinner drink.

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