Nobody knows if wine will still flow freely across the Channel if the UK crashes out without a deal

They are bottling early this year at Château Bauduc. The shining, million-euro, steel-and-glass mobile bottling plant and its six-strong crew have arrived and are hard at work in a thin late-January sun: rinsing, drying, filling, capping, labelling.

“Last year, we didn’t bottle till March,” says Gavin Quinney, who with his wife, Angela, has been producing a range of critically acclaimed Bordeaux blanc white and Bordeaux supérieur red wines from their 25 hectares (62 acres) of vines since 2000.

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