Young settlers are trying to rebuild houses and a community, but authorities want them to knock it all down – at their expense

A cuckoo calls in Fraguas, its two-note song echoing through the pines, around the village’s ruined church and along the weed-choked rockeries that once were streets.

Until four years ago, there were only hunters and hikers to hear the birds sing. But today, almost five decades after the last inhabitants left, Fraguas is slowly and controversially stirring back to life.

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