The siege of Sarajevo turned leisure spot Mount Trebević into a deadly sniper position. Can the reopening of its famous gondola ride finally heal old wounds?

Pazite, Snajper! – Beware, Sniper! – warned the signs along the Sarajevo street exposed to marksmen looking through their rifle viewfinders from the top of Mount Trebević. People would sprint from one side of “sniper’s alley” to the other to deliver supplies to family and friends – death hot on their heels.

The hillside where tens of thousands used to spend their Saturdays before the 1992-1996 siege of Sarajevo soon became “a symbol of aggression”, recalls mountain guide Fikret Kahrovic. “Trebević was the only place to breathe fresh air when the city was engulfed in fumes, but that all changed and the mountain became our enemy.”

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