Inspired by the revered jamón ibérico, Alfonso García Cobaleda is trying to do the same thing with beef

In the chilled chambers of an industrial estate on the edge of a small Extremaduran town and the rolling pastures at the foot of the Sierra de Gata, a lawyer-turned-cattle-farmer is engaged on a quest for gastronomic alchemy.

Alfonso García Cobaleda’s raw material is, to begin with at least, less than mouth-watering. From a hook hangs 66kg of cow leg, its deep red and off-white surface moist to the touch thanks to an oozingly high fat content.

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